D7000 Liveview switch

"Nige Danton" <***@nospam.com> wrote in message news:4619683441064669.278113nige.danton-***@news.eternal-september.org...
: Hi, Nikon D7000. I can no longer operate the Liveview switch, it's fixed
: in its default position. Ive searched the user guide and web but cannot
: find anything that's relevant. It was working fine. Is the switch faulty
or
: is there a lock somewhere that has been inadvertently operated? Many
thanks
: for any suggestions.
:
: --
: Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

Hello Nige.

The manual at
http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/kie88335f7869dfuejdl=-cww2/D7000_EN.pdf
doesn't mention a lock. See pages 49 and 53.

Regards, Ian.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ***@netfront.net ---

Nige Danton

2014-12-27 03:23:59 UTC

Post by Ian
The manual at
http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/kie88335f7869dfuejdl=-cww2/D7000_EN.pdf
doesn't mention a lock. See pages 49 and 53.

Hi Ian, yes thanks. I guess he switch must be faulty. Pity, as I'm a
considerable distance from a repair shop.

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

Ian

2014-12-27 10:51:49 UTC

"Nige Danton" <***@nospam.com> wrote in message news:1223932704441343338.425897nige.danton-***@news.eternal-september.org...
: "Ian" <***@IAmV.net> wrote:
:
: > The manual at
: >
http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/kie88335f7869dfuejdl=-cww2/D7000_EN.pdf
: > doesn't mention a lock. See pages 49 and 53.
:
: Hi Ian, yes thanks. I guess he switch must be faulty. Pity, as I'm a
: considerable distance from a repair shop.
:
: --
: Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

Hello Nigel. These switches are small and it might be that the mechanism is
binding/jammed and that moving it gently and slightly in different
directions might free it. I've found this with other small switches where
the switch mechanism has very little leeway in movement for it to bind. I
suspect they are much more of a compromise, mechanically, than switches of a
larger size.
The inbuilt flash of my DSLR had problems for a while and needed a push to
pop up (this had to be a prompt push otherwise the camera would decide that
the flash was faulty and go into fault mode). After a while the flash
settled down in its pivots and is now back in normal working order.

Best wishes, Ian.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ***@netfront.net ---

Nige Danton

2014-12-28 00:38:25 UTC

Post by Ian
Hello Nigel. These switches are small and it might be that the mechanism is
binding/jammed and that moving it gently and slightly in different
directions might free it. I've found this with other small switches where
the switch mechanism has very little leeway in movement for it to bind. I
suspect they are much more of a compromise, mechanically, than switches of a
larger size.
The inbuilt flash of my DSLR had problems for a while and needed a push to
pop up (this had to be a prompt push otherwise the camera would decide that
the flash was faulty and go into fault mode). After a while the flash
settled down in its pivots and is now back in normal working order.

Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and
is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
photography.

Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field),
and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

PeterN

2014-12-28 14:34:50 UTC

Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and
is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
photography.
Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field),
and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.

Welcome to the macro world.
When I don't use a macro lens, I also use extension tubes for my macro
work. Just a few hints. I rarely use autofocus. I find that using
liveview for focusing is a real PITA, especially outdoors. (YMMV)
The above are just my macro preferences. More importantly, many lenses
will have noticable diffraction at the smallest aperature. You might
want to check the manufacturers website. Not every image needs to be, or
should be sharp in all areas. You can use partial image blur creatively.

<Loading Image...

--
PeterN

Nige Danton

2015-01-08 04:49:55 UTC

Post by PeterN
Welcome to the macro world.

Thanks!

Post by PeterN
The above are just my macro preferences. More importantly, many lenses
will have noticable diffraction at the smallest aperature. You might want
to check the manufacturers website. Not every image needs to be, or
should be sharp in all areas. You can use partial image blur creatively.

Understood.

Post by PeterN
<https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/1%20Needs%20A%20Shower.jpg>

Fabulous photo, thanks for sharing.

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

Ian

2014-12-28 15:27:24 UTC

"Nige Danton" <***@nospam.com> wrote in message news:1774374209441418833.263615nige.danton-***@news.eternal-september.org...

: Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and
: is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
: in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
: photography.
:
: Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
: than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
: tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of
field),
: and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
: all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
: on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.
:
: --
: Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l
:
Hello again Nige.
That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam
will hopefully not happen again.

Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out.
May I suggest a couple of things?
1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses
usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For
example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll
probably use f6.3-8.
2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension
tube despite the resulting image not being as large.
More tubes = dimmer viewfinder.
Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your
computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and
see what differences you can see.
I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep
my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm
respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found
that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than
those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and
heavy 150-500mm lens.
I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for
macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so
use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm
lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it
second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby).

Have fun.
Best wishes, Ian.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ***@netfront.net ---

PeterN

2014-12-28 16:07:34 UTC

Post by Ian
: Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and
: is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
: in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
: photography.
: Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
: than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
: tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of
field),
: and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
: all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
: on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.
: --
: Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l
Hello again Nige.
That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam
will hopefully not happen again.
Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out.
May I suggest a couple of things?
1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses
usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For
example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll
probably use f6.3-8.
2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension
tube despite the resulting image not being as large.
More tubes = dimmer viewfinder.
Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your
computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and
see what differences you can see.

That depends on the lens. I use my 70-200 and have put all three tubes,
and it gives me crisp images. Some lenses are not designed for close up,
or macro work. Others, such as my 200mm micro IIRC I have put five tubes
on, with no loss of image quality. However, the lens gives terrible
images at distances greater than 10', although it focuses to infinity.

Post by Ian
I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep
my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm
respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found
that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than
those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and
heavy 150-500mm lens.
I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for
macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so
use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm
lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it
second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby).

--
PeterN

android

2014-12-28 16:24:07 UTC

Post by Ian
.org...
: Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff
: and
: is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
: in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try
: macro
: photography.
: Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the
: subject
: than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
: tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of
field),
: and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
: all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough
: light
: on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.
: --
: Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l
Hello again Nige.
That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam
will hopefully not happen again.
Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out.
May I suggest a couple of things?
1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses
usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For
example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll
probably use f6.3-8.
2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension
tube despite the resulting image not being as large.
More tubes = dimmer viewfinder.
Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your
computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and
see what differences you can see.

It's the med Nikkor 200mm 5.6, right? That lens is designed for closeup
work in institutions and the infinity setting is really a freebie, sort
of... You really should use bellows and a tripod instead of extension
tubes with that thingie!

--
teleportation kills

PeterN

2014-12-28 17:01:42 UTC

Post by android

Nope: It's an f4, manual focus. The lens cap is 52mm. To give you an
idea of its age, I bought it used over 35 years ago.
I often use it on a tripod. I sold my bellows because I did not like
working with them.

Post by android

--
PeterN

android

2014-12-28 17:22:23 UTC

Post by Ian
er
.org...
: Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff
: and
: is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used
: it
: in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try
: macro
: photography.
: Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the
: subject
: than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I
: have),
: tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of
field),
: and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am
: using
: all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough
: light
: on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.
: --
: Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l
Hello again Nige.
That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam
will hopefully not happen again.
Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out.
May I suggest a couple of things?
1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses
usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For
example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll
probably use f6.3-8.
2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension
tube despite the resulting image not being as large.
More tubes = dimmer viewfinder.
Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your
computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and
see what differences you can see.

Oki...

Post by android

--
teleportation kills

Nige Danton

2015-01-08 04:49:52 UTC

Post by Ian
That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam
will hopefully not happen again.
Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out.
May I suggest a couple of things?

Please do - I'm appreciate the benefit of other people's experience

Post by Ian
1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses
usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For
example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll
probably use f6.3-8.
2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension
tube despite the resulting image not being as large.
More tubes = dimmer viewfinder.
Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your
computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and
see what differences you can see.

Interesting. I'll try this out. Thanks for the suggestion.

I could be tempted to buy a macro lens but only if I'm sure I'd actually
get a reasonable amount of use from it.

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

J. Clarke

2015-02-01 03:18:12 UTC

In article <141006056442382319.548925nige.danton-

Please do - I'm appreciate the benefit of other people's experience

Interesting. I'll try this out. Thanks for the suggestion.

I could be tempted to buy a macro lens but only if I'm sure I'd actually
get a reasonable amount of use from it.

A good 100 macro also makes a nice portrait lens you know.

John A.

2015-02-01 05:49:49 UTC

On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 22:18:12 -0500, "J. Clarke"

Post by J. Clarke
In article <141006056442382319.548925nige.danton-

Please do - I'm appreciate the benefit of other people's experience

Interesting. I'll try this out. Thanks for the suggestion.

I could be tempted to buy a macro lens but only if I'm sure I'd actually
get a reasonable amount of use from it.

A good 100 macro also makes a nice portrait lens you know.

And if it's weather-resistant too, you can get even more use out of
it.

http://www.us.ricoh-imaging.com/camera-lenses/smc_PENTAX_D_FA_MACRO_100mm_F2.8_WR

Michael Benveniste

2015-02-01 17:28:35 UTC

Post by J. Clarke

Post by Nige Danton
I could be tempted to buy a macro lens but only if I'm sure I'd actually
get a reasonable amount of use from it.

A good 100 macro also makes a nice portrait lens you know.

I found that for my own tastes, a 100mm or 105mm macro lens was too long
a focal length for portraiture when paired with an APS-C format camera
like the D7000. I do occasionally use the 105mm f/2.8VR micro with the
larger format D800, though.

--
Mike Benveniste -- ***@murkyether.com (Clarification Required)
You don't have to sort of enhance reality. There is nothing
stranger than truth. -- Annie Leibovitz

2014-12-28 16:29:03 UTC

You might try a sparing application of some contac/control cleaner and
lubricant. AKA tuner cleaner back in the day of the mechanical rotary
TV tuners. This was useful in helping cure then main switch issues
associated with aging Nikon CP-990s and similar cameras.
Remember to block off the viewfinder if using auto exposure with
liveview.

On Sun, 28 Dec 2014 00:38:25 +0000 (UTC), Nige Danton

Post by Nige Danton
Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and

is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
photography.
Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field),
and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.

Nige Danton

2015-01-08 04:49:47 UTC

Post by me
You might try a sparing application of some contac/control cleaner and
lubricant. AKA tuner cleaner back in the day of the mechanical rotary
TV tuners. This was useful in helping cure then main switch issues
associated with aging Nikon CP-990s and similar cameras.

Will do, thanks.

Post by me
Remember to block off the viewfinder if using auto exposure with
liveview.

I didn't realise I was supposed to be covering the viewfinder. Is that to
stop stray light?

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

Savageduck

2015-01-08 05:12:32 UTC

Will do, thanks.

Post by me
Remember to block off the viewfinder if using auto exposure with
liveview.

I didn't realise I was supposed to be covering the viewfinder. Is that to
stop stray light?

If you are using LiveView light entering through the VF which is not
covered by your eye/face can have an effect on the AE. If you are
shooting all manual it isn't going to matter. Nikon usually includes a
plastic, slide-on cover for the VF on their DSLRs. Otherwise just use a
Post It Note.

--
Regards,

Savageduck

Nige Danton

2015-01-08 05:24:36 UTC

Post by Savageduck
If you are using LiveView light entering through the VF which is not
covered by your eye/face can have an effect on the AE. If you are
shooting all manual it isn't going to matter. Nikon usually includes a
plastic, slide-on cover for the VF on their DSLRs. Otherwise just use a Post It Note.

ok, thanks. I have one of those covers and understood what it was for, but
didn't realise it should be used when using using liveview (and
autoexposure)

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

android

2015-01-08 06:52:41 UTC

Post by Savageduck

Will do, thanks.

Post by me
Remember to block off the viewfinder if using auto exposure with
liveview.

I didn't realise I was supposed to be covering the viewfinder. Is that to
stop stray light?

sooo... the nikons are using the meter by the prism in liveview?
live and learn!

--
The Goog: Do NT... Be EVIL!

Michael Benveniste

2015-01-08 11:34:16 UTC

Post by android
sooo... the nikons are using the meter by the prism in liveview?
live and learn!

Quoting Nikon, "Since the imaging sensor constantly streams data for
the LCD display during Live View operation, the mirror must be
continuously held up while Live View mode is being used."

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/ftlzi4ra/live-view-shooting-modes.html

So I doubt Nikon is metering by the prism, but perhaps some light
can escape from the prism past the mirror while it's in the up
position. That would be consistent with reports I've seen about
long exposure photography with the D7100.

--
Mike Benveniste -- ***@murkyether.com (Clarification Required)
You don't have to sort of enhance reality. There is nothing
stranger than truth. -- Annie Leibovitz

J. Clarke

2015-01-04 20:36:58 UTC

In article <1774374209441418833.263615nige.danton-

Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and
is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
photography.
Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field),
and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.

Do you have a focusing rack? If not you might want to get one. This
one works fine <http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Focusing-Close-up-
Shooting-Standard/dp/B009SJ7UWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420403549&sr=8-1
&keywords=focusing+rail>--I have one of those that I found in a box of
stuff obtained at an estate sale, and a Manfrotto that costs about five
times as much and I don't find a lot of difference between them in terms
of performance.

Being able to move the camera precisely in small increments will make
macro much easier--the rule is that you set the lens for the
magnification you want and then move the camera to get focus.

Eric Stevens

2015-01-05 03:36:03 UTC

On Sun, 4 Jan 2015 15:36:58 -0500, "J. Clarke"

Post by J. Clarke
In article <1774374209441418833.263615nige.danton-

Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and
is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it
in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro
photography.
Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject
than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have),
tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field),
and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using
all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light
on the subject. All that said, it's good fun.

or http://tinyurl.com/o78k9hh

Post by J. Clarke
--I have one of those that I found in a box of
stuff obtained at an estate sale, and a Manfrotto that costs about five
times as much and I don't find a lot of difference between them in terms
of performance.
Being able to move the camera precisely in small increments will make
macro much easier--the rule is that you set the lens for the
magnification you want and then move the camera to get focus.

--
Regards,

Eric Stevens

Nige Danton

2015-01-08 04:49:45 UTC

Post by J. Clarke
Do you have a focusing rack? If not you might want to get one. This
one works fine <http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Focusing-Close-up-
Shooting-Standard/dp/B009SJ7UWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420403549&sr=8-1
&keywords=focusing+rail>--I have one of those that I found in a box of
stuff obtained at an estate sale, and a Manfrotto that costs about five
times as much and I don't find a lot of difference between them in terms
of performance.

Another item I didn't know existed. I'll order one, thanks for the
suggestion.

Post by J. Clarke
Being able to move the camera precisely in small increments will make
macro much easier--the rule is that you set the lens for the
magnification you want and then move the camera to get focus.

Are these lamps any good?

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER®-Macro-Ring-LED-Light/dp/B0031AQ302/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_y

--
Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l

Nige Danton

2014-12-27 03:24:01 UTC